”French Chicken” with Dijon Mustard and Scallions
Happy Birthday Julia! As a kid growing up, Julia was a fixture on television and she was a fixture in our kitchen. Not only did my mother watch her, but she cooked along with her as well. The local PBS station sent the recipes in advance and my mother put the recipes in a three-ring binder that she still has today.
My favorite menu was what we referred to as “French Chicken,” a butterflied chicken slathered with a mustard, white wine and scallion sauce that bakes on the chicken as it roasts, becoming a delectable crust and infusing the chicken with the heady flavors of Dijon mustard. The vegetable was fresh peas cooked with Boston lettuce, and dessert was a delicious apple tart with a layer of Grand Marnier-spiked applesauce and a layer of apricot glazed apple slices on top. This menu was often a birthday meal so it is a fitting menu for Julia Child’s 100th birthday celebration.
I knew that my mother adapted the recipes from Julia Child but I thought that she created the menu herself. However, a few years ago I was rummaging in an antique store and I found a limited edition cookbook that complied all the menus of Julia’s PBS series.
I read through the recipes and realized that my favorite meal was literally taken from the show and I thanked Julia for bringing a taste of France to my mother’s Southern kitchen. I went on to become a huge Francophile, living in Paris and falling in love with the food, the culture, the sounds—everything, even the notebooks and pens!
When I came back to the states, I started working in the food business and joined several culinary organizations. Much to my delight, even though Julia was the reigning culinary icon, and up in years, she attended the conferences and was always front and center in the seminars. I was tickled “rose” to meet her and be in her presence but what impressed me the most was that [even at her high level of expertise and age] she was so interested in continuing to learn, and open to learn from people who were nowhere near her level of accomplishment. That characteristic influenced my life as much as her food did. I try to live everyday like I envisioned Julia Child living, eternally curious and listening to what others have to offer.
So, it is no surprise that I took my favorite childhood chicken dish and adapted it to the grill. The grill facilitates the browning and crisping of the skin, and the mustard glaze—making this one chicken that you have to eat skin and all!
It may not be exactly as Julia intended, but it certainly brings her spirit into my home every time I make it and, I hope this dish will bring her into your home as well.
Grilling Method: Indirect/Medium Heat
Serves 4-8
2 small chickens, about 2 ½ pounds each, preferably Amish or organic
Olive oil
Kosher salt
Grains of Paradise (optional) or Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons white wine
1/3 cup strong Dijon mustard such as Amora or Maille
3 tablespoons, unsalted butter, melted
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Pinch of cayenne pepper
3 scallions, chopped
1 cup panko or fresh white bread crumbs
2-4 tomatoes, cut in half (optional)
Preheat the grill.
Remove chicken from packaging and pat dry with paper towels. Using poultry shears or a very sharp knife cut on each side of the backbone and remove it. Turn chicken breast-side up and break the breastbone by striking it sharply with a blunt object. Open two sides of the chicken as if you were opening a book, and lay it flat. Tuck the wing tip under the upper wing and brush all over with olive oil.
Season with salt and grains of paradise or pepper. Place chickens in the center of the grill skin-side up. Meanwhile, assemble mustard sauce by whisking mustard and white wine together. Slowly drizzle oil and butter in the mixture to blend. Add thyme, cayenne pepper and scallions and mix to combine. Reserve 4-8 teaspoons for tomatoes if making.
After 20 minutes, turn chickens over and spread mustard sauce on back of the chickens. Grill for ten minutes. Turn over breast-side up and spread mustard on skin, grill for 5 minutes. Sprinkle breast-side of the chickens with breadcrumbs and grill for 10-15 more minutes or until juices run clear and the thickest part of the thigh registers 180 ˚F, not touching the bone. Let the chickens rest for 10 minutes before carving them.
During the final 10 minutes of cooking time—or while the chicken rests, spread each tomato half with reserved mustard sauce and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Grill for 10 minutes or until top is crunchy and tomato is warmed through. Serve hot.
ALL RECIPES ©ELIZABETH KARMEL 2020