When I think about summer, I think about deviled eggs. Beginning with Easter and going straight through September, just about every activity - from camping and cookouts to beach vacations and July Fourth gatherings - can be enhanced by a plate of deviled eggs.

It's really just a matter of swapping the garnish to fit the activity or mood.

If I am feeling down-homey, I add a little pimento cheese to my basic deviled egg mixture. If I want to spice it up, I add pureed chipotle and substitute lime for the lemon. For the right occasion I'll even get a little fancy and top deviled eggs with caviar, either the traditional variety or the newer wasabi-infused flying fish roe.

Still, no matter how good embellished deviled eggs are, my favorite remains what I call 'straight-up deviled eggs.' They are as advertised - classic and simple. You can use them as a base for any and all flavor mix-ins, or serve them like I do, straight up, simple and sublime.

One of the beauties of deviled eggs is how well they travel. That's why I call them party eggs. But there are a few tricks to making certain they are sensational.

First, you have to cook the eggs properly. Freshly boiled eggs are key to great flavor and texture. Don't buy pre-cooked hard-boiled eggs.

The best method is to place the eggs in a saucepan and add enough cold water to generously cover them. Bring the water to a boil. As soon as the water is boiling, turn off the heat, put a lid on the pan and wait 15 minutes. This method really is more like poaching than boiling, and will guarantee a yellow, creamy well-cooked egg.

After 15 minutes, plunge the eggs into a bowl of cold water. This prevents them from overcooking (and from turning green at the center).

I like to make the deviled mixture right away. This helps the flavors of the ingredients fully meld with the yolk. I am a fan of cutting the eggs in half vertically because I think it is easier to keep all the goodness of the deviled egg mixture in the white. However, for esthetic purposes, you should follow the shape of your deviled egg tray.

The eggs taste better after the mixture has had a chance to sit so the flavors can marry. For that reason, I always make my deviled eggs the day before and refrigerate the mixture in a closed pastry bag. I pipe (squirt) the filling into the whites just before serving or leaving the house. A light hand with the garnish, then you are done.

Makes 12 to 24 servings

1               dozen large eggs

1/3        cup mayonnaise, preferably Hellmann’s

4               tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

¼          cup strong Dijon mustard

½          lemon, zested

1               teaspoon fresh lemon juice

             Pinch garlic powder

2 to 4    shakes Tabasco

             Sea Salt

             Smoked paprika or minced fresh chives

Place the eggs in a large stockpot and cover with cold water.  Bring to a boil, cover, and turn off the heat.  Let the eggs sit for 20 minutes.  Drain and run them under cold water until they are cool to the touch.  Let them sit another 10 minutes. 

Peel the eggs carefully, keeping the whites intact.  Cut in half lengthwise and remove the yolks.  Set the whites aside on a platter or egg plate.

Put the yolks into a medium bowl and mash them with a fork, until all large pieces are broken up and smooth.  If the eggs are cold, run them through a fine sieve to insure against lumps.  Add the mayonnaise, butter, mustard, lemon zest and juice, garlic powder, and Tabasco to taste.  Stir well.  Taste and season with salt. 

Place the mixture in a pastry bag and pipe it into the egg whites or use a small spoon to fill the egg white “boats” with yolk mixture.  Sprinkle the eggs with smoked paprika for classic eggs, or chives for a fancier-looking version.  Serve chilled.

ALL RECIPES ©ELIZABETH KARMEL 2020