This old school–style sauce is spiced up with a dash of Tabasco and lots of fresh thyme.

Makes about 1¼ cups

2          tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes 

1          large shallot, peeled and minced (about 2 tablespoons) 

3          tablespoons white wine vinegar 

3          tablespoons brandy, preferably Cognac

1          tablespoon strong Dijon mustard

½        cup heavy (whipping) cream

1          dash Tabasco or other favorite hot sauce (optional) 

Fine sea salt and freshly ground white pepper 

2          teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, plus 5 sprigs for infusing 

1          tablespoon green peppercorns, pressed dry.

1. Combine the 2 tablespoons butter, shallot, vinegar, brandy, and mustard in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook for 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the cream and whisk until it is incorporated. This addition of the cream will help prevent the sauce from breaking.

2. Start adding the butter cubes, one at a time, whisking continuously. When the first cube of butter is almost melted, add another. Repeat until all the butter is incorporated. 

3. Add the rest of the cream, the Tabasco, if using, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of white pepper. Add the 5 sprigs of thyme and let sit in the hot sauce for 10 minutes. 

4. While the mixture is still warm, strain through a china cap or other fine strainer. Mix in the thyme leaves and peppercorns. Use immediately or keep in a pitcher in a warm water bath. If the sauce breaks, you can reincorporate it with a little heavy cream or by using an immersion blender. 

Recipes adapted from Elizabeth Karmel's "Steak and Cake," © 2019 Workman Publishing Company, Photograph by Stephen Hamilton