Bacon-Wrapped Beef Tenderloin with a Green Peppercorn and Thyme Sauce
I don’t remember when my holiday tradition of prime rib changed to a holiday tradition of beef tenderloin, but it is a welcome change. As much as I love prime rib, beef tenderloin is easier to prepare and to carve, and the leftovers are good cold.
The only challenge with beef tenderloin is that it is lean, with little to no fat, and it is best served rare. One year, I wanted to do something that looked a little fancier than plain grilled tenderloin but was just as easy to execute. I remembered one of my favorite ways to prepare filet—bacon-wrapped—and thought, let’s see what happens if I wrap the tenderloin in bacon, mummy style!
Finally, since it is the “Christmas beast,” I decided to add a rich green peppercorn sauce scented with fresh thyme and a splash of Cognac. This is now my favorite party presentation for beef tenderloin, and I love the mash-up of the bacon wrap with the old-school sauce. It just goes to show you that everything old can be new again!
Serves 6 to 8 or 8 to 10
Pan: Rimmed sheet pan
Method: Oven
1 chateaubriand (3 to 4 pounds and about 10 inches long) or a whole trimmed tenderloin (about 5 pounds and 14 inches long)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound thin-cut bacon, at room temperature
Fresh thyme leaves, for garnish
Green Peppercorn and Thyme Sauce (recipe follows)
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Brush the tenderloin all over with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. If using a whole tenderloin, tuck the small ends of the tenderloin under each side to make sure that the roast is about the same thickness all over. If roasting a chateaubriand, you won’t need to do that.
Beginning at one end, wrap the bacon around the tenderloin, overlapping the strips so they stick to each other. Make sure the ends of the bacon are tucked under.
Place the bacon-wrapped tenderloin on a rack set on a rimmed sheet pan with the ends of the bacon touching the rack so the bacon doesn’t unravel.
Roast until the temperature reaches 125°F on an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the meat, about 60 minutes. Remove the tenderloin from the oven and let rest for 20 minutes, covered with aluminum foil. If you used thin-cut bacon, it should be crisp, but if you want the bacon to be crispier, you can broil the roast for 1 to 2 minutes before removing from the oven.
Slice and garnish generously with fresh thyme leaves. Serve with the sauce on the side.
Green Peppercorn and Thyme Sauce
This old school–style sauce is spiced up with a dash of Tabasco and lots of fresh thyme.
Makes about 1¼ cups
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes
1 large shallot, peeled and minced (about 2 tablespoons)
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons brandy, preferably Cognac
1 tablespoon strong Dijon mustard
½ cup heavy (whipping) cream
1 dash Tabasco or other favorite hot sauce (optional)
Fine sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, plus 5 sprigs for infusing
1 tablespoon green peppercorns, pressed dry.
1. Combine the 2 tablespoons butter, shallot, vinegar, brandy, and mustard in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook for 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the cream and whisk until it is incorporated. This addition of the cream will help prevent the sauce from breaking.
2. Start adding the butter cubes, one at a time, whisking continuously. When the first cube of butter is almost melted, add another. Repeat until all the butter is incorporated.
3. Add the rest of the cream, the Tabasco, if using, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of white pepper. Add the 5 sprigs of thyme and let sit in the hot sauce for 10 minutes.
4. While the mixture is still warm, strain through a china cap or other fine strainer. Mix in the thyme leaves and peppercorns. Use immediately or keep in a pitcher in a warm water bath. If the sauce breaks, you can reincorporate it with a little heavy cream or by using an immersion blender.
Recipes adapted from Elizabeth Karmel's "Steak and Cake," © 2019 Workman Publishing Company, Photograph by Stephen Hamilton